• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.

• SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads: Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain’t no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads : Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).

• Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.

• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
• Accordion Boot: ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.

• Grade 8 – Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.

1.75″ DOM SAE 1020 Tube: Because some people prefer steel and there are as many good reasons for it as there are for aluminum.

• Pre-threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves : Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings : Included for every application.

• RH Drag Link End – Flopper Stopper Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty “Flopper Stoppers” are built into the knuckle side drag link end bearing, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Ninja Washers ™:An APEX exclusive is our Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn’t want a ninja on their front end!
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads:If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.

• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.

• SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads: Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain’t no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads : Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).

• Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.

• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
• Accordion Boot: ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.

• Grade 8 – Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.

1.75″ DOM SAE 1020 Tube: Because some people prefer steel and there are as many good reasons for it as there are for aluminum.

• Pre-threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves : Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings : Included for every application.

• RH Drag Link End – Flopper Stopper Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty “Flopper Stoppers” are built into the knuckle side drag link end bearing, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Ninja Washers ™:An APEX exclusive is our Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn’t want a ninja on their front end!
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads:If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.

• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.

• SAE 4140 Hot Forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads: Made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain’t no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads: Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).

• Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.

• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold.
• Accordion Boot: Ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.

• Grade 8 – Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.

• 2″ 7075-T6 Aluminum Rod: The best aluminum available for this application. Extremely durable but has some flex and memory if you really bash it into something.

• Pre Threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves: Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings: Included for every application.

• RH Drag Link End – Flopper Stopper Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty “Flopper Stoppers” are built into the knuckle side drag link end bearing, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Ninja Washers ™:An APEX exclusive is our Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn’t want a ninja on their front end!
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads:If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.